Salmon in Lemon Brodetto with Pea Puree

I know this blog probably makes it seem like we eat rich and decadent food all the time, but those are the dishes that seem worth writing about (and secretly - I'm gonna blame my sausage-loving hubby for all transgressions). Fish does enter our landscape now and again. Usually we grill out, but last night, we were feeling a little fancy. This recipe is by Giada de Laurentiis from a gem of a cookbook put out annually by the editors of Food & Wine magazine (look for Vol 12). 

The pea puree makes the dish and is also wonderful on crostini. You can also grill the salmon instead of pan frying if you prefer.

Salmon in Lemon Brodetto with Pea Puree
serves 4

Lemon Brodetto
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 shallot, diced
2 lemons, one zested and both juiced
2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves

Pea Puree
2 cups (one small bag) frozen peas, thawed 
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves
1 garlic clove
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Salmon
1/4 cup olive oil
4 (4-6 oz) salmon fillets
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make the brodetto:
Warm olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and sauté until tender, about 7 minutes. Add the lemon zest and juice, and the broth. Bring to a simmer, cover, and keep warm over low heat.

Make the pea puree:
Combine peas, mint, garlic, salt, and pepper in a food processor and puree. With the machine running, add the extra-virgin olive oil in a steady drizzle. Transfer the pea puree to a small bowl and stir in the Parmesan. Set aside. 

Make the salmon:
Warm the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over high heat. Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper. Sear the salmon on one side until a golden crust forms (4-5 minutes). Flip the fish and continue cooking until medium-rare, about 2 minutes more depending on the thickness of the fish.

Assemble:
Stir the tablespoon of chopped mint into the lemon brodetto and divide among 4 shallow bowls. Place a large spoonful of pea puree in the center of each bowl. Place a salmon piece atop each mound of pea puree and serve immediately.

Pasta with Spicy Broccoli & Cauliflower

This pasta recipe is from Zuni (surprise, surprise) and it's fantastic. The secret is getting the broccoli carmelized and the bread crumbs add an amazing crunch!

Pasta with Spicy Broccoli & Cauliflower

From Zuni Cafe Cookbook by Judy Rogers

Serves 4 to 5

1 cup fresh, soft bread crumbs (about 2 oz), made from crust-less, slightly stale, chewy, white peasant-style bread

3/4 cup mild-tasting olive oil

12 ounces broccoli, trimmed, with a few inches of stem intact

12 ounces cauliflower, leaves removed and stem end trimmed flush

Salt

1 generous tablespoon capers, rinsed, pressed dry between towels and slightly chopped

1 pound penne, spaghetti, orecchiette, fusilli or medium shells

1 tablespoon chopped salt-packed anchovy fillets (4 to 6 fillets) (optional)

6 small garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, lightly pounded in a mortar

4 to 8 pinches dried chili flakes

1 tablespoon tightly packed, coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley

4 to 5 tablespoons coarsely chopped pitted black olives such as Niçoise, Gaeta or Nyons (rinsed to remove excess brine)

If using bread crumbs, preheat oven to 425º.

Toss bread crumbs with 2 teaspons oil, spread on baking sheet and bake for about 5 minutes, until golden. 

Slice broccoli and cauliflower 1/8 inch thick, and generally lengthwise. Most of the slices will break apart, yielding a pile of stem pieces, tiny green broccoli buds, loose cauliflower crumbs and a few delicate slabs with stem and flower both. Don't worry if the slices are uneven - that will make for more textural variety.

Warm about 1/4 cup of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add most of the sliced broccoli and cauliflower, conveniently leaving the smallest bits behind for now. (They'll burn if added too soon.) The oil should sizzle quietly. Swirl the pan and leave the vegetables to cook  until you see the edge bits browning (about 3 minutes). Salt very lightly and toss or stir and fold gently. Add a few more spoonfuls of oil and scrape the remaining bits of broccoli and cauliflower into the pan. Add capers and swirl gently. Continue cooking over medium heat until edges begin to brown, another few minutes, then give the pan another stir or toss. Don't stir too soon or too often - or you will get a homogenous steam pile of vegetables instead of a crispy, chewy one. 

Meanwhile, drop the pasta in to 6 quarts of boiling, salted water. Stir, and cook al dente. Set a wide bowl or platter on the stovetop to heat.

Once the mass of broccoli and cauliflower has shrunken by about a third and is largely tender, reduce the heat, add another few spoonfuls of oil, and scatter the chopped anchovy, garlic, fennel and chili over all. Give the vegetables a stir. Cook for another few minutes, then add the parsley and olives. Taste - every flavor should be clamoring for dominance. Adjust as needed.

Toss with the well-drained pasta and garnish with warm, toasted bread crumbs.

Clownin' around

I'm very proud to report that Otis (aka "The Great Tootinski") recently graduated from "clown school". Yup. You read that correctly.

We were looking around for training class and our friend Sandra suggested we try Canine Circus School. Who could resist a class with a name like that? Francis is an amazing trainer/ring-master and Otis just loved it. I mean really - what dog wouldn't love eating hot dogs for an hour while learning how to sit pretty. We had a blast and I highly recommend the class!!! 

We set up this "class photo" on the last day. Surprisingly, Otis didn't mind getting dressed up for the occasion. Don't they all look so very adorable and obedient? (L to R: Bella, Henry, Chief and Otis)

How do you get a bunch of dogs to sit patiently until you can grab a good photo? Here's a sneak peek of the hot dog treating bonanza that took place just before the shot was taken.

We're looking forward to Circus 1.5!

Pepo's Birthday Chimay-Glazed Short Ribs

When I told Pepo I was going to cook my way through the Zuni Cafe Cookbook, he jumped up and down and promptly opened the book to this recipe, declaring it his "birthday meal". Oh me, oh my! This is definitely decadent and just perfect for a special occasion. 

True to form, we went for gold serving them alongside buttermilk mashed potatoes and chard (the greenery - just to make ourselves feel better about the rest of the meal). The mustard is brilliant as a last step and totally makes the meal.

Short Ribs Braised in Chimay Ale

From Zuni Cafe Cookbook by Judy Rogers

Serves 4

About 2-1/2 pounds short ribs, cut across the bone into 2-inch wide bands (have the butcher do this for you)

Salt

1 to 2 tablespoons mild-tasting olive oil

1-1/2 pounds yellow onions (about 3 medium), sliced 1/4 inch thick

2 bay leaves

A few whole white peppercorns

A few sliced dried wild mushrooms, rinsed in warm water and coarsely chopped (optional)

Up to 1 cup Beef Stock or Chicken Stock

Up to 1 cup Chimay ale or similar Belgian-style ale or a mellow porter or stout

About 1/4 cup Dijon mustard

Trim and season the ribs:

(for the best flavor and succulence, do this step 1 to 2 days in advance, or at least a few hours ahead):

Trim most of the fat from the short ribs, but leave silverskin and touch sheathing around the bones intact. This will help keep meat succulent and will give body and character to the braise. Salt evenly all over (we use a scan 3/4 teaspoon sea salt per pound of meat). Cover loosely and refrigerate

Cook the ribs:

Warm the oil in a 3-quart sauté pan over medium heat. Wipe the pieces of meat dry. Brown the short ribs evenly and gently on the three meaty sides, about 4 minutes per side. Pour off excess fat.

Rearrange the meat bone side down in the pan. Add the onions, bay, pepper-corns, optional mushrooms, and equal parts stock and ale, porter or stout to come to a depth of about 3/4 inch. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook over low heat, until fork-tender, about 2 to 2-1/4 hours. (You can cook the braise in a pre-heated 300º oven if you prefer.) Check two or three times to make sure the liquid is barely simmering, and turn each piece of meat each time you check. When the meat is done, uncover, prop the pan at a slight angle, and leave to rest for about 5 minutes. 

Mustard topping/under the broiler:

Turn on the broiler.

Skim the fat that has collected at the lower side of the pan. Taste the juice and simmer as needed to concentrate the flavor. Salt as needed. Make sure each piece of meat is bone side down, then brush or smear the tops with the mustard. Set the pan under the broiler, about 5 inches form the element, to brown the mustard and glaze the surface of the onion stew, about 5 minutes.

Serve the short ribs very hot, mustard plaster up, with a spoonful of the syrupy sauce and onions.

The sweetest birds!

I bought this dresser on the sidewalk in Noe Valley over 20 years ago. Given my "single-girl-just-finding-her-way-in-the-city" status, it was definitely a splurge at the time and I distinctly remember the woman who sold it to me refusing to bargain because she was happy to keep it for herself. 

I can't say I blame her. I've kept it all these years because it's just the sweetest piece and the perfect size. And of course now, it's also a nostalgic reminder of my bachelorette days. It had seen me through a few moves and gotten a big banged up, so I decided it needed a refresh - and painted it a dark navy blue. But the best part is the knobs. Pepo offered to paint them for me and we quickly settled on a bird theme. Just a little bit of quirk always works wonders. Aren't they the cutest? I don't know which bird I like best!

Green Pozole with Chicken

We were feeling like stewy/soupy comfort the other day and when I opened the pantry, I saw a lonely can of hominy sitting there on the shelf. It inspired me to make Pozole and I can't believe I haven't tried it before. 

Here's the recipe from Epicurious. After reading through the comments, I think I'll try using dried hominy next time. This is so good - I can see why the "will make it again" rating is 100%!

A very special project

Today is my dear friend Mandy's birthday. Our friendship dates back to 8th grade and over these many I've come to be known for being that crazy friend that calls at an ungodly hour to make sure I'm the first to wish her a happy birthday every year. So - I'm thinking extra sweet thoughts about her this morning.

After Father's Day this year, Mandy mentioned that she still had all of her late dad's old ties and I instantly thought it would be so sweet to feature them in a quilt. I'm not exactly sure where I'm headed with this one, but I'll definitely be thinking of him as I make it. 

Happy Birthday Mandy!

Toasted Bread Crumb Salsa

It was our anniversary on Saturday, so we decided to fire up the grill and make some lamb "lollipops" to celebrate. Inspired by my crazy project of cooking my way through Zuni, B decided to pitch in and make this recipe. We've had it over lamb and roasted pork tenderloin and it was delicious on both!

Toasting the breadcrumbs slowly makes them extra crispy. I was surprised they were still very crunchy even the next day. Judy recommends this salsa "on simple grilled food such as skirt steak, game birds, radicchio or leeks. It's delicious with warm roast beef or tossed with cold roasted chicken or warm green beens."

Toasted Bread Crumb Salsa
Makes 1 1/4 cups

2 ounces fresh, soft bread crumbs (about 1 cup) made form slightly stale, crustless, chewy white peasant-style bread
1 tablespoon mild-tasting olive oil
1 to 2 teaspoons chopped salt-packed anchovy fillets (2 to 4 fillets)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, barely chopped
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed, pressed dry between towels and barely chopped
1 tablespoon finely diced shallot (about 1 medium shallot)
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
About 3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar, or white wine vinegar
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Preheat the over to 275º

Very gently knead the bread crumbs together with the 1 tablespoon olive oil and spread in a thin even layer on a baking sheet. Bake until the crumbs are the color of strong tea, about 30 minutes. Don't try to rush this step; if the crumbs are not dry enough, the salsa will go soggy in minutes. You should get a scant 2/3 cup very hard crumbs. Cool completely.

Stir together the anchovies, thyme, capers, shallot, extra-virgin olive oil, vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Combine this base with the crisp bread crumbs about 10 minutes before serving, then taste and add more of any of the ingredients if you like. The salsa should be brightly flavored and juicy. Stir and taste again just before serving.

Happy anniversary Otis!

It's hard to believe that we adopted Otis a year ago today. I still remember meeting him for the first time - after the excitement of greeting us was over, he hopped right up onto the couch between us and put his head in my lap. That was pretty much it for us.

Still, we asked a lot of questions and wanted to be sure he'd be the right fit. I don't think we could have found a better match! Mostly - he's a huge hunk of love - which was definitely on our list of criteria because let's face it, snuggling is important. We're forever grateful to our friend and trainer Sandra who helped guide us in looking for other important clues about his temperament.

Each day he seems to get softer and sweeter and more wonderful as he's settled into our family. We are also ever so thankful to his "grandma" Evie and to GGLR for helping us make this wonderful connection. 

Here's to many sweet years ahead! Woof!

Chicken Braised with Figs, Honey & Vinegar

This weekend our friends Paddy and George graced us with several gorgeous figs from their tree. Our first thought was of running home and wrapping them in prosciutto as we love to do. We had quite a few, so I started trolling my bookshelf for recipes. It didn't take long to find just the right thing. The minute my fingers graced the binding of the Zuni Cafe Cookbook, I knew I'd hit pay dirt. 

I've been toying with the idea of cooking my way through this book - and last night's dinner may have just sealed the deal. I heart Judy Rodgers and her Roast Chicken with Bread Salad is a major favorite in our kitchen. So stay tuned, more Zuni recipes to come! In the meantime, enjoy this one. Delicious is an understatement!

Chicken Braised with Figs, Honey & Vinegar

serves 4

4 chicken legs (8-9 ounces each)

Salt

About 2 tablespoons mild-tasting olive oil

1 medium  yellow onion, root trimmed, and cut into 8 wedges

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons dry white vermouth

1/2 cup chicken stock

1 bay leaf

a sprig of fresh thyme

a few black peppercorns, barely cracked in a mortar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon honey

8-10 ripe fresh figs - Kadota, Smyrna, Excel, Adriatic or Black Mission

Seasoning the chicken 

(For best flavor - do this 12-24 hours in advance)

Trim excess fat, then season th echicken evenly all over with salt (Zuni recommends a scant 3/4 teaspoon sea salt per pound of chicken). Cover loosely and refrigerate.

Cooking the chicken

Preheat over to 375º.

Pat the chicken legs dry; this will make them less likely to stick. Heat a scant 2 tablespoons olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat, then add the chicken legs, skin side down. The oil should sizzle, not pop explosively, when you add chicken. Adjusting the heat as necessary, cook until the skin is evenly golden, about 8 minutes. Turn the legs over and color only slightly on the other side, about 4 minutes. Pour off the fat.

If your skillet is ovenproof, arrange the onion wedges in the spaces between the chicken legs; otherwise, transfer the chicken to a shallow flameproof braising dish that will easily hold the chicken and onions in a single layer, and add the onions. Add the wine, vermouth, and enough stock to come to a depth of about 1/2 inch. Bring to a simmer and add the bay leaf, thyme, and cracked black peppercorns. 

Place, uncovered, in the over, and cook until the meat is tender but not quite falling off the bone, about 40 minutes. The exposed skin will have truned golden and crispy; the liquid ought to have reduced by about half. Remove from the oven and set on a slight tilt so the fat will collect at one side of the pan.

Combine the vinegar and honey and warm slightly. Taste. The vinegar should dominate, but without making you squint. Trim the stems and cut the figs in half.

Skim as much fat as possible from the braising liquid, then set the pan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and swirl as you reduce the liquid to a syrupy consistency. Distribute the figs evenly around the pan, add about 2 tablespoons of the vinegar-honey syrup, and swirl the pan to diffuse the bubbling, amber syrup without smashing the tender fruit. The sauce will be glossy. Taste - it should be rich and vibrantly sour-sweet. Add more, or all of the syrup, to taste. The vinegar adds a bright but unstable note of acidity, which will fade wiht boiling, so simmer for only a minute or less.

Serve each chicken leg with 2 wedges of sweet, soft onion and 4 or 5 fig halves, bathed in a few spoonfuls of the sauce.