Grown up Mac & Cheese

I owe this recipe to my friends Heather and Paul who introduced us to this fabulous version of one our our favorite comfort foods. Perfect for our blue mood and the gloomy, rainy weather outside. I usually like to double it up so that I have one for the freezer and one for the oven. If you double it, don't double the wine - it ends up tasting a bit too much like fondue.

Grown up Mac & Cheese
Serves 6

8 oz penne rigate, cavatappi or other tube-shaped pasta
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more for cooking the pasta
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup finely chopped shallots
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
2/3 cups whole milk
10 ounces of two or three aged cheeses (gruyere, grana padano, sharp cheddar are my faves)
2 or 3 tablespoons plus minced chives
1 tablespoon dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
4 ounces fresh bread crumbs

1. Preheat oven to 400.

2. Cook pasta 2 minutes less than package directions in a large pot of boiling, well-salted water. Drain, but no not rinse.

3. Meanwhile, in a large saute pan, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add shallots and cook until light golden (about 3 mins). Sprinkle shallot-butter mixture with flour and cook, stirring often, 1 minute more. Add wine and stir, picking up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add milk and stir well. Sprinkle in grated cheese, one large handful at a time until each handful is mostly melted before adding the next. Stir in chives, mustard, cayenne and nutmeg. Taste for salt and adjust seasonings (it should be on the edge of too salty - which will dissipate when you add the pasta). Stir cooked pasta into mixture, then pour into a buttered 2 quart baking dish. Sprinkle bread crumbs on top and bake 15-20 minutes, until warm, bubbling and golden on top.